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Precious Metals
Gold
Gold has been coveted for its gleaming beauty since time immemorial.
It is strong, yet malleable, does not rust, corrode or tarnish. Gold is a popular metal of jewellery designers because of its versatility. It can be moulded, shaped and carved into intricate jewelry designs |
Pure gold is so soft that it is rarely used in jewelry. It is mixed with another metal - usually copper or silver - to make a stronger gold alloy. The amount of pure gold in an alloy is expressed in karats (versus the carat weight used for measuring diamonds and other gems). The higher the percentage of pure gold, the higher the karat. Pure gold is 24K, while 10K gold - the minimum that may legally be called karat gold in the United States - is 10 parts gold to 14 parts other metal. The standard is 14K in the United States, 18K in Europe, and 22K in India, Japan and some other Asian countries. Back to top
Gold Karat Markings
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24K gold is pure gold.
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22K gold - 22 parts of gold and 2 parts of another metal(s)
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18K gold - 18 parts gold and 6 parts of another metal(s) (75% gold).
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14K gold - 14 parts gold and 10 parts of another metal(s) (58.3% gold).
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12K gold - 12 parts gold and 12 parts of another metal(s) (50% gold). Back to top
White gold, green gold, and pink gold are alloys of gold—new metals that are created by combining two or more different metals. |
White Gold
White gold became popular in the 1920s mainly as a substitute to platinum, which was nearly four times as expensive.
White gold has the same properties as yellow gold; it has been mixed with different metals to give it a white colour. Instead of the copper and silver in yellow gold, white gold contains metals like nickel, zinc, or palladium. The same karat weight system is used for both white gold and yellow gold. White gold can be plated with an even whiter metal, such as rhodium, a very rare member of the platinum family, to enhance its appearance.
The white colour is an excellent setting for very white diamonds, and when used side by side with yellow gold, it creates a striking effect. Jewelry using both white and yellow gold is called "two-tone." White gold also compliments other gem stones better than yellow gold. Back to top
Rose & Pink Gold Alloys
Copper is added to make gold-coloured alloys, but additional copper creates pink and rose tones—higher the copper content, deeper the pink effect. This usually means decreasing the silver content. Rose and pink gold are obtained by varying the content of silver in the gold alloy.
Before Metallurgists make an alloy of gold, they have to consider how the metals will react with each other. They fine-tune their formula to produce attractive and durable combinations which can be turned into jewellery. Back to top
Platinum
Platinum is the world’s rarest metal, 35 times as precious as gold. It is also heavier and more durable than gold. It will never tarnish or wear out, and its light colour makes it popular for jewellery.
If you want a silver band that will never tarnish, platinum is the choice for you. If your partner is in any way allergic to metals, platinum is the clear choice since it is hypoallergenic and will not irritate the skin.
Platinum polishes to a brilliant white lustre. It stays white even while acquiring a soft patina over years of wear. It is never coated with another metal. It never requires any other special treatment.
Platinum jewelry is usually produced from an alloy of 90% platinum and 10% iridium, two of the precious metals in the platinum family. The other members include palladium, ruthenium, osmium and rhodium.
Platinum is not sold according to karat weight. The purity of platinum is measured by a 3-digit number that shows the percentage of platinum used in the alloy. For instance, Pt1000, 1000Pt or 1000Plat for pure platinum; or Pt950, 950Pt or 950Plat for 950 parts per thousand platinum and 50 parts other metals. Back to top
Here is a comparison of Platinum with white gold for engagement rings.
Comparison |
Platinum |
White Gold |
Weight/ feel? |
Heavier and denser metal than gold |
Lighter than gold |
Durability
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More durable than gold - lasts over many generations
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Gold lasts a lifetime though it wears thin over time and the shank may eventually need to be replaced.
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Scratching |
Platinum scratches the diamond with more high polish area easily. |
White gold maintains its sheen longer than platinum. |
Colour
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White is the natural colour of platinum. Maintains the same colour forever. |
White gold may eventually tinge to a very light yellow. It needs to be re-plated with rhodium. |
Cost
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Platinum is 35 times rarer, four times more expensive than Gold.
Cost of the metal is insignificant compared to the cost of the Jewellery. |
Price is less expensive compared to platinum. |
Maintenance
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Platinum needs to be polished at longer intervals compared to Gold. |
Maintenance on white gold rings can include re-polishing, re-plating (rhodium finish), and/or eventual replacement of shank. |
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