Diamond Setting Types Explained: Close vs Open Setting – What’s Best for Your Jewellery?

CaratLane Ananta close setting south indian diamond jewellery collection

Every diamond tells a story—but how that story is framed depends greatly on its setting. How a diamond is mounted does more than secure it in place; it determines how it sparkles, how durable the piece is, and how seamlessly it fits your lifestyle and style. 

Whether you’re beginning your diamond journey or looking to invest in a bridal masterpiece, knowing the different diamond setting styles is key to finding jewellery that doesn’t just shine—but lasts beautifully through time.

What Are Diamond Setting Types and Why Do They Matter?

Diamond settings, or mounting styles, refer to the technique used to secure a diamond onto a piece of jewellery. Beyond simply holding the gemstone in place, settings influence how much light reaches the diamond, how secure the stone is, and what aesthetic it delivers.

From classic styles like prong and bezel to more intricate techniques like flush, pave, and channel, each setting has a specific role. Here’s a quick overview of the most popular ones and where they are commonly used:

Explore CaratLane Close setting diamond jewellery in 22k Gold: Close setting diamond rings, Close setting diamond studs, Close setting diamond necklaces, Close setting diamond bangles

close setting South Indian diamond jewellery
Setting TypeStructureBest Used InLight EntryLook
ProngMetal claws grip the diamondRings, earrings, pendantsHighAiry, elegant
BezelMetal rim encircles the stoneDaily wear rings, braceletsMediumSleek, modern
ChannelDiamonds set in a groove between metal wallsEternity bands, banglesModerateFlush and clean
PaveTiny diamonds set closely with minimal metal visibleStatement rings, earringsHighSparkly, encrusted look
FlushDiamond sunk into the metal surfaceMen’s rings, kids’ jewelleryLowSmooth, understated
Closed/CloseDiamond set with no air or light gaps; often enclosed from sides and bottomTraditional jewellery, bridal setsMinimalSolid, secure
OpenDiamond setting allows light from multiple anglesLightweight rings, daily wearMaximumBright and vibrant

Close vs Open Diamond Settings – Key Differences

The debate between open and close (closed) settings is especially relevant for Indian jewellery buyers. Each offers distinct advantages shaped by design intent, how frequently and where the jewellery will be worn, personal aesthetic preferences, and even region-specific expectations influenced by tradition, lifestyle, and climate.

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Vanki Ring

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Vanki Ring

Clustered Orb 22k Diamond Ring

Clustered Orb 22k Diamond Ring

Pave Gaze 22k Diamond Ring

Pave Gaze 22k Diamond Ring

Chevron 22k Diamond Vanki Ring

Chevron 22k Diamond Vanki Ring

What is a Close (Closed) Setting in Diamond Jewellery?

Closed settings involve securely encasing the diamond within metal—often from the sides and base—offering a flush, enclosed structure. These settings have long been favoured in more ornate and heirloom-inspired designs.

Why choose a closed setting?

Challenges: While traditional in appearance, closed settings allow less light to pass through the stone. This can sometimes dull the sparkle if the piece lacks precise craftsmanship. Another concern is the blackening seen in studs or thodus, which is caused by residue buildup in the enclosed back. CaratLane mitigates this with high-quality finishing and thoughtful design techniques that help maintain the brightness and hygiene of the jewellery.

close setting diamond necklace sets
antique south indian jewellery sets

What is an Open Setting in Diamond Jewellery?

Open settings expose more of the diamond, typically through side gaps or a clear underside. This approach maximises light entry and is often used in lightweight, contemporary pieces like the Clutch 22k Diamond Ring, Trinity 22k Diamond Ring

Why choose an open setting?

  • Enhances the diamond’s brilliance by allowing greater light penetration
  • Feels lighter and more breathable—ideal for regular wear, especially in warmer climates
  • Matches minimalist, modern aesthetics and is often chosen for westernised or urban styling

Limitations: While visually striking, open settings can expose diamonds to more dust, making them better suited for controlled environments or occasional wear. They may also be slightly less secure than closed settings for high-movement use, which is a factor to consider when gifting to children or for high-contact routines.

As we move from general setting styles to specific cultural preferences, South India stands out for its distinctive bridal jewellery traditions, where structure, symbolism, and diamond settings go hand in hand.

Reuleaux 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Reuleaux 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Circa 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Circa 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Bloom 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Bloom 22k Diamond Stud Earrings

Diamond Settings for South Indian Jewellery

Here’s a spotlight on how South Indian traditions shape the structure and symbolism of bridal jewellery, particularly through their strong preference for closed diamond settings.

Why Closed Settings Are Preferred in South Indian Jewellery

From Tamil Nadu to Kerala, bridal diamond jewellery in the South follows a distinct language of design—one that embraces grandeur, structure, and symbolism. Closed settings are particularly prized for:

Closed settings also resonate with cultural values of strength, completeness, and continuity in design, making them a natural fit for wedding jewellery.

Introducing Ananta by CaratLane – 22KT Closed Setting Diamond Jewellery

For those seeking the richness of tradition with the trust of modern craftsmanship, CaratLane’s Ananta collection blends 22KT gold with the strength of closed diamond settings. Designed for South Indian brides and connoisseurs of heritage jewellery, the collection includes:

Each piece from Ananta channels the spirit of traditional jewellery while using precision techniques to avoid common issues like blackening.

While there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, you may want to consider a few factors—how often you’ll wear the piece, your style, and how it needs to perform across different occasions—before choosing the right diamond setting.

What Setting is Right for Your Jewellery Needs?

Choosing the right setting goes beyond lifestyle and aesthetics—it also involves how much wear and tear the jewellery will endure, your comfort preferences, and even practical needs like ease of maintenance or how the piece interacts with your skin or climate.

Reuleaux 22k Diamond Necklace

Reuleaux 22k Diamond Necklace

Circa 22k Diamond Necklace

Circa 22k Diamond Necklace

Bloom 22k Diamond Necklace

Bloom 22k Diamond Necklace

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Necklace

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Necklace

Based on Usage

  • Everyday wear: Open or bezel settings offer a lightweight feel and allow for daily shine.
  • Bridal and festive wear: Closed settings provide durability and a luxurious presence like the Reuleaux 22k Diamond Necklace and Reuleaux 22k Diamond Stud Earrings
  • Jewellery for children: Flush or closed settings are best to avoid prongs or edges that may scratch.

Based on Style Preference

  • Modern looks: Open settings are a perfect match for minimal, geometric, and contemporary pieces.
  • Traditional appeal: Closed settings suit antique-inspired South Indian bridal or heirloom jewellery.

Diamond Setting Maintenance Tips

Like all fine jewellery, diamond settings, especially those with intricate or fully enclosed designs, need care.

Common concerns:

  • Darkened studs or thodus: Often a result of sweat, dust, or oil buildup in enclosed spaces
  • Cleaning tips: Use a soft brush, warm water, and mild soap. For closed settings, ensure regular wipe-downs and professional cleaning every few months.
  • Storage: Store diamond jewellery separately to avoid scratches. Avoid excessive exposure to moisture.

CaratLane’s solution: 

Each piece is engineered for durability, shine retention, and ease of cleaning—even in traditional closed styles.

Still have questions about open and closed diamond settings? You will find answers to a few of them below. 

FAQs on Diamond Settings
  1. What is the difference between a prong and a bezel setting?

A prong setting holds the diamond with metal claws, offering more light play. A bezel surrounds the stone, giving a smoother, more protective fit.

  1. Are diamonds in 22KT gold secure and durable?

Yes, when expertly mounted using closed settings, 22KT diamond jewellery can be secure and long-lasting. CaratLane ensures this with reinforced craftsmanship.

  1. Can diamonds be set in 22KT gold?

Absolutely. The Ananta collection is a prime example of how high-purity gold can beautifully support diamond settings with heritage design.

  1. Which diamond setting makes the stone appear larger?

Open settings—especially prong or halo styles—allow more light and visual space, making the diamond look bigger and more radiant.

Raceme 22k Diamond Bangle

Raceme 22k Diamond Bangle

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Bangle

Contour Kite 22k Diamond Bangle

Reuleaux 22k Diamond Bangle

Reuleaux 22k Diamond Bangle

Circa 22k Diamond Bangle

Circa 22k Diamond Bangle

Why CaratLane Gets It Right with Diamond Settings

When choosing jewellery that carries emotional, cultural, and financial value, every design detail matters. CaratLane’s approach blends three key strengths:

  • Understanding of customer needs: Whether you’re looking for daily wear or a bridal heirloom
  • Respect for tradition: Especially in collections like Ananta, rooted in South Indian design philosophies
  • Modern innovation: Using state-of-the-art techniques to avoid pitfalls like loose stones or darkened settings

From closed settings that echo tradition to open styles that celebrate light and motion, CaratLane offers designs that balance beauty, practicality, and trust.

Every Diamond Deserves the Right Setting

Diamond settings aren’t just about security—they shape how your jewellery looks, feels and lasts. The choice you make will depend on your sense of style and lifestyle, from open designs that sparkle with modern flair to closed settings that ground tradition in every curve.

Explore your options at CaratLane—whether you’re eyeing a bridal set steeped in heritage or a delicate diamond ring for everyday brilliance. Discover the Ananta collection and more, online or in-store, and find a setting that speaks to you.

Suggested Reading:

CaratLane Ananta Collection: Closed Setting Diamond Jewellery in 22K Gold

Why 22 Carat Gold Jewellery?

Create a Stunning Everyday Look with Modern 22k Gold Jewellery: Earrings, Chains, and Necklaces

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